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The snowcapped, snaggle-toothed
Grand Tetons are America's quintessential mountain range, rearing up with
cartoonish exaggeration out of the sagebrush-covered flats of Jackson Hole,
Wyoming. Topped by 13,770-foot Grand Teton, these mountains are a magnet for the
world's top alpinists — peak baggers, big-wall climbers, and backcountry and
free skiers. All of them find the Tetons' extreme terrain an endless canvas on
which to invent evermore hair-raising ways to gain and lose elevation.
Grand Tetons
Photo © John Clet Jones,
Greater West Images
For the rest of us, the
peaks are mostly a backdrop of unreal, pinch-me-now scenic beauty. Try cycling
or driving through Jackson Hole, one of the premier stages for the world-famous
wildlife viewing of the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem; you may spot some of the
buffalo, moose, pronghorn, and elk that roam here. Or you can float the Snake
River, a trip through achingly beautiful country.
Nearly 3 million people
visit Grand Teton National Park each year. Whether you go to rope up the granite
or to camp the shores of Jenny Lake, we're pretty sure your visit here will
yield more than a peek or two at the sublime.
Backpacking
the Teton Crest
Although a
well-used route, backpacking the Teton Crest is the best way to get a taste of
all the flavors the park has to offer. It may be one of the most outstanding
hikes of your lifetime! The trail runs north from the park's southern border
through the high country of the Tetons for 39 miles, ending at Paintbrush
Canyon; it takes at least three days to complete it. And you might decide to
stay up there for a while — a day or two into the trip you'll reach Alaska
Basin, one of those magical, wildflower-strewn backcountry spots where you can
laze for days. From there you'll skirt behind South, Middle, and Grand Teton
Peaks — enjoying spectacular views of these peaks and the expanses to the west
— and then head down to Cascade Canyon. You can curtail your hike, walking out
magnificent Cascade Canyon, or if you have some more time, head for Lake
Solitude, over Paintbrush Divide and out Paintbrush Canyon.
Floating
the Snake River
The Snake is a
complex river to float. The beauty and lack of whitewater often lull floaters
into inattentiveness. Looks are deceiving, however. This river can pose quite
the challenge for even expert paddlers, but by paying close attention to the
tangle of channels and constant shifting of logjams, anyone can come out of this
experience with one of the best rushes ever! The natural environment along the
river is outstanding. Flowing west from its source in the Teton Wilderness, the
river enters Yellowstone National Park, then flows south through the John D.
Rockefeller, Jr., Memorial Parkway, and into Jackson Lake in Grand Teton
National Park. Regaining its free-flowing character at the Jackson Lake Dam, the
river winds through the park. For a scenic stretch suitable for all levels, try
Jackson Lake Dam to Cattleman's Bridge; Cattleman's Bridge to Pacific Creek.
These stretches provide scenic views, calmer water, and the fewest obstructions.
The
Tetons in Winter
Since John D.
Memorial Parkway stays open long after most of Yellowstone is closed for winter,
Grand Teton becomes king of the hill during the season of snow. Expert
all-mountain skiers head to Jackson Hole for its world-famous resort. The
cross-country skiing is fine, fine, fine. One of the most memorable, although
difficult, is the Flagg Canyon Trail on the north side. The trail follows the
edge of the scenic Snake River, first along riverside meadows, then along a
canyon walled with volcanic rock. The terrain is gently rolling with a few short
steep sections that are easily avoided. Or, on the south side, try the Phelps
Lake Overlook Trail on for size. The trail climbs southward through a lodgepole-pine
forest and over an open slope to reach the overlook of Phelps Lake framed by
towering Douglas firs. And for the internal combustion set, Teton has many
snowmobiling venues, including the Continental Divide Snowmobile Trail.
See the
Wildlife
The thunder of a
buffalo herd on the move . . . the resonant ring of an elk bugling into frosty
morning air . . . the shrill alarms of "whistlepigs" (marmots) in an
alpine meadow. These are images of an unspoiled natural America, something
supposed to have largely vanished from the modern world. But the Tetons are in
the heart of the last nearly intact temperate ecosystem in North America, a
place where the wildlife viewing is magical. Colter Bay is a prime spot to watch
the full show. The roads and trails in the Colter Bay area provide views of a
wide array of mammals. Deer feed at the edge of conifer forests. Uinta ground
squirrels flourish in dry sagebrush meadows, while red squirrels chatter
incessantly from conifer forests. Alert observers catch occasional glimpses of
snowshoe hares and martens in the conifer forests. Trails in the Colter Bay area
lead to ponds inhabited by beavers, muskrats, waterfowl, and sometimes river
otters; hiking may also provide views of moose and elk.
Drive the
Teton Park Road
This scenic drive
ranks up there with the greats. As it curves through the park, it skirts Jenny
and Jackson Lakes, with the peaks of the Tetons always in view. Along the way,
you'll pass turnouts with glorious views, trailheads for day hikes, and turnoffs
for driving side trips. Signal Mountain Road to the top of Signal Mountain is
particularly recommended. While here, head up to the summit by following a
five-mile drive starting one mile south of Signal Mountain Lodge and Campground.
The road winds to the top of Signal Mountain, 800 feet above the valley. Summit
overlooks provide a panoramic view of the entire Teton Range, Jackson Lake, and
most of Jackson Hole.
Catch the
Snake River Cutthroat
The Snake River is
one of the most famous — and popular — fishing rivers in the country. It
even has its own species. The Snake River cutthroat is found in the upper Snake
River watershed. It can be identified by red slash marks under the throat and
small black spots on a yellowish body. Along with this colorful character,
brook, brown, rainbow, and lake trout, and whitefish swim the park's waters. The
best time to fish the Snake is late August and September. Many of the Snake's
tributaries are fishable earlier than August. But several streams are closed
until August 1 because they are important spawning areas. Check with park
authorities. |
